Cosmeceutical Critique

Macadamia and Sapucaia Extracts and the Skin


 

Stability for Cosmetic Creams

In 2020, Rampazzo et al. assessed the stability and cytotoxicity of a cosmetic cream containing sapucaia nut oil. All three tested concentrations (1%, 5%, and 10%) of the cream were found to be stable, with an effective preservative system, and deemed safe for use on human skin. To maintain a pH appropriate for a body cream, the formulation requires a stabilizing agent. The cream with 5% nut oil was identified as the most stable and satisfying for use on the skin.7

More recently, Hertel Pereira et al. investigated the benefits of using L. pisonis pericarp extract, known to exhibit abundant antioxidants, in an all-natural skin cream. They found that formulation instability increased proportionally with the concentration of the extract, but the use of the outer pericarp of L. pisonis was well suited for the cream formulation, with physical-chemical and organoleptic qualities unchanged after the stability test.11

Conclusion

The available literature on the medical applications of macadamia and sapucaia plants is sparse. Some recent findings are promising regarding possible uses in skin health. However, much more research is necessary before considering macadamia and sapucaia as viable sources of botanical agents capable of delivering significant cutaneous benefits.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., an SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Dailey A and Vuong QV. Antioxidants (Basel). 2015 Nov 12;4(4):699-718.

2. Silva LL et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2012 Jan 6;139(1):90-97.

3. Somwongin S et al. Ultrason Sonochem. 2023 Jan;92:106266.

4. Addy J et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Jan/Feb;68(1):59-67.

5. Hanum TI et al. Open Access Maced J Med Sci. 2019 Nov 14;7(22):3917-3920.

6. Akhtar N and Yazan Y. Pak J Pharm Sci. 2008 Jan;21(1):45-50.

7. Rampazzo APS et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Sep/Oct;71(5):239-250.

8. Rosa TLM et al. Food Res Int. 2020 Nov;137:109383.

9. Demoliner F et al. Food Res Int. 2018 Oct;112:434-442.

10. Vieira ME et al. Acta Biochim Biophys Sin (Shanghai). 2015 Sep;47(9):716-729.

11. Hertel Pereira AC et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Mar-Apr;72(2):155-162.

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