Antioxidant, Antibacterial, and Anti-Inflammatory Activity
Based on a 2023 literature search by Li Pomi et al. of in vitro as well as in vivo animal and human studies involving S. rosmarinus and the skin, researchers reported on substantial evidence buttressing the antioxidant role of the botanical agent. They cautioned that, while data support the harnessing of the bioactive constituents of rosemary to address inflammatory and infectious skin conditions, large controlled trials remain necessary to establish its potential functions in dermatologic clinical practice.11
Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute
Dr. Leslie S. Baumann
Ten years earlier, Park et al. determined that a phenolic diterpene from rosemary (carnosic acid) prevented UV-induced expression of MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9 in human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes in a concentration-dependent manner by suppressing reactive oxygen species and blocking through the inhibition of ROS and the suppression of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK)-mediated AP-1 activation.12
Around the same time, Sienkiewicz et al. showed that rosemary essential oil exhibits antibacterial activity against the standard strain Escherichia coli ATCC 25922 and 60 other clinical strains of the bacteria.13
Further, anti-inflammatory properties have been attributed to rosemary essential oil, which are thought to be due to its suppression of nuclear factor kappa B transcription and inhibition of the arachidonic acid cascade.14
Other Functions of Rosemary
In 2022, Sutkowska-Skolimowska et al. demonstrated that rosemary extract in concentrations of 50 and 100mcg/mL significantly diminished accumulated collagen in the fibroblasts of four patients with severe and fatal osteogenesis imperfecta, suggesting that the botanical agent may have a role targeting cellular stress and inducing autophagy in therapy for this condition.15
In 2015, Akbari et al. established that 0.5% and 1% concentrations of rosemary essential oil were effective in facilitating the percutaneous absorption of diclofenac sodium topical gel.16
Conclusion
In Western culture, rosemary is thought of more as a spice to add flavor to food. However, there appears to be an emerging body of evidence suggesting various possible functions for rosemary in the dermatologic armamentarium. Much more research is necessary, though, to ascertain the most appropriate and optimal roles for this popular herb in skin care.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami, Florida. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as a ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.
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