Skin care product layering affects efficacy and outcomes of regimens

Efficacy and compliance in product layering

Improper choice and layering of skin care formulations reduces efficacy and increases the risk of side effects resulting in reduced patient compliance. Acne treatments are a good example. Patients are often prescribed a retinoid, benzoyl peroxide, topical antibiotic, and/or salicylic acid treatment product for acne. If the proper cleansers and moisturizers are not chosen, the patient will be more likely to develop redness and scaling and become noncompliant.

Compliance is a concerning issue to dermatologists because studies have shown that 95% of people underdose and one out of every three prescriptions is not even filled.² If patients develop side effects, they are more likely to underdose or stop the treatment. Prescribing the proper cleanser and moisturizer to accompany treatment products will ease side effects and increase compliance. Several studies have demonstrated that the best way to increase compliance is to provide patients with written instructions, so they understand the proper order in which to apply products.

The role of cleansers

Cleansers can alter the pH of the skin, loosen attachments between cells, remove lipids – and disrupt the bilayer protective membrane, desquamate layers from the stratum corneum, and influence the penetrability of the skin for the next topical product that is applied. Therefore, cleansers should be selected based on the products that will follow them in the regimen. In addition, cleansers should be chosen according to the patient’s Baumann Skin Type.³ For example, cleansers for use on oily skin should have the ability to remove excess sebum on the skin while cleansers designed for dry skin would not remove as many lipids from the skin. Washing skin with a foaming cleanser can disrupt the skin barrier, allowing increased penetration of the treatment product that follows it. Oleic acid, hyaluronic acid, stearic acid, and other lipids are among the ingredients that influence skin penetration. Cleansers should precede treatment products and should be designed to increase efficacy of the treatment product. For this reason, every ingredient and characteristic of the chosen cleanser is important.