Cosmeceutical Critique

The role of defensins in treating skin aging


 

Studying DefenAge

At this time, there is only one small multicenter, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study completed at three locations by investigators who are stockholders in the company and an independent dermatologic histopathologist who has no relation with the company; results have been reported in aesthetic dermatology industry newsletters. Each site had 15 patients for a total of 45 patients; all were women, aged 41-70 years (average age, 60 years), with little or no history of “quality” skin care. The study regimen used a system that contained alpha- and beta-defensins developed by Progenitor Biologics. Thirty patients used the three products in the DefenAge line: the 2-Minute Reveal Masque Exfoliator, 24/7 Barrier Balance Cream, and 8-in-1 BioSerum. The remaining patients received a three-part placebo system. Baseline biopsies were obtained to evaluate underlying conditions in the patients’ skin, and their skin was evaluated at 6 and 12 weeks, when additional biopsies were taken. Data analysis indicated that patients using DefenAge experienced significant improvement in coarse and fine wrinkles, pigmentation, pore prominence, epidermal thickness, as well as skin texture and evenness.

My personal opinion

I have never been a fan of formulations containing stem cells or peptides for the reasons listed above. DefenAge is unique in the way it has been stabilized, by penetrating the hair follicle rather than through the dermis and because defensin has very well-documented effects on the important LGR6+ stem cells. The effects of defensin on LGR6+ stem cells intrigue me. I do not intend to stop recommending retinoids for antiaging, but rather will add DefenAge to the antiaging regimen. In the past year, I have used DefenAge on many patients and have had many observations. I do not recommend starting retinoids and DefenAge at the same time because I have seen increased retinoid dermatitis. I suggest starting one the first month and then introducing the other product during the second month. Although no studies have been performed on this, my impression is that the DefenAge gives a quick result that helps improve patient compliance with the entire skin care regimen, but the effects reach a point at which no further improvement is seen. Combining DefenAge with a skin care regimen (targeted specifically to their Baumann Skin Type of course!) that includes a retinoid will increase efficacy. For wrinkle-prone skin types, I combine DefenAge with a retinoid, vitamin C, and heparan sulfate. After cleansing in the morning, I have them apply vitamin C followed by the DefenAge and an SPF. In the evening after cleansing, I have them apply a retinoid followed by a heparan sulfate analogue.

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